Parts List (incomplete)

Performing the Modification

1. Using a low-wattage, grounded soldering iron (for details, look here), solder the amplifier to location IS1 on the analogue board. Make sure you align the chip as diagrammed on the board, with the indentation on the chip above the indentation on the outline. Also make sure that you don't short two adjoining pins with a clump of solder. See the tips below for more.
2. Using the same soldering iron as in step 1, solder the electrolytic cap to location CS3, ensuring you have the correct polarity.
3. Remove RS7 (back of a/b near main connector) and solder it on RS2 (also on back).
4. Solder the capacitor identical to CS2 to the pads designated CS1 (back of a/b).
5. Solder the 3.3 uF capacitor (identical to CS4) to the pads designated CS5 (back of a/b).
6. Solder the 5100-Ohm resistor (identical to RS4) to the pads designated RS1 (back of a/b).
7. If using a speaker connector from a CC, drill two holes in the a/b in a layout similar to that used for the existing connector. Solder the new connector in place, taking care to match polarity of the wires.
8. If using other speakers, you're on your own for figuring it out from the directions here.
9. Test the new speaker by booting up the CC with only the new speaker connected. If you don't hear any sound, check your connections and try again.

Notes/Tips

• Soldering tip: apply a dab of solder flux on both parts of each joint before soldering and use a small drop of fresh solder when you make the connections. It will make things MUCH easier.
• Surface-mount (SMT) parts desoldering tip: use two soldering irons, one on each side of the part, to heat both solder pads simultaneously. When the solder flows, just flip the part off the board by pinching the irons together.
• All surface-mount parts are non-polarised (this is actually very important; the mod won't work if you use polarised surface-mount capacitors), so the direction in which you solder them doesn't matter.
• Putting a small dab of saliva on the bottom of the SMT parts helps to hold them in place on the board while you solder.
• If you have a dead 500-series or spare CC analogue board, the necessary parts can be scavenged from those. You'll need a good soldering iron and some patience. A dead CC or 63x series machine is probably the best source of a second speaker if you're content with simply using the stock speakers. If you want to upgrade a PowerCC to stereo, you must use a second CC-style speaker, as there's no room to install speakers in the front of the chassis. This goes double for any Takky that uses a 3.3V regulator circuit.
• I have plenty of the capacitors marked 1A5 or AA5 that I've pulled from dead motherboards around here. If you need one, just e-mail me your address and I'll send one out.
• Digi-Key charges a US$6 handling fee (in addition to normal shipping fees) for all orders under US$25. If you're only ordering a couple things from them, it's not worth it. E-mail me for help if you can't find these.
• The electrolytic cap only needs to be a 50V part; Digi-Key is out of stock of all 50V electrolytics in the required capacitance. I've substituted a 100V part but if you want the original part number, it's P5465-ND.
• I have found speakers, sort of. The original CC speaker, at least the one I decided to take apart, seems, to be 16 Ohms, not 8 as originally thought. This opened up the possibilities for round speakers quite a bit, and I found that LC II and later LC-series (III, III+, 475/605) Macs have an ideal speaker for this purpose. Once I have the installation complete, I'll take some pictures and put them up here.

Last modified on 16 May 2002
by Chris Lawson
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